It's long been a dream of mine to visit Broome. The opportunity came when I kept a week free from bookings so I could take the kids to Lake Mungo (in NSW), only to be told by my kids they couldn't go away then because the had exams on (groan. geez I have nerdy kids). I still had the time off so I shipped the kids off to their dad and flew to Exmouth.
You actually land at Learmonth, which is an air force base so no photos allowed, and then drive to Exmouth.
I love the red earth in our country, and I adore these ant hills!
We checked in at the Novotel in Exmouth. It is, according to reports, the best hotel in Exmouth. It was very nice, and the bed was really comfy, but it was the price of a suite overlooking the harbour in a 5 star Sydney hotel.
This was an introduction to Western Australia's extreme pricing.
I get the whole 'it's a long way to the shop if you're importing stuff', but they do have meat and seafood living there... (A restaurant that looked like a pizza place, with bain maries in display cabinets, had main meals in the high $30's, for example.) The Novotel restaurant (Mantarays) was even more expensive, but the service we received there was so good with the waiter giving us a five star dining experience whether we looked like we deserved it or not. He was awesome.
Now Exmouth is not actually on the 'Coral Coast'. It's around the corner on the opposite side of a peninsular. It's still water frontage, but not the coral that the coast is famous for. And there is no where you can stay that is near the coral areas unless you camp, which I very much do not.
So Exmouth is the nearest town to access Ningaloo. but it's a really long way away.
We wanted a west coast sunset, so had to drive about 20 mins around the corner for it. There was surf there too.
Up at the light house I found the ideal viewing spot
and as the mozzies closed in (so many of them there), shot the sunset.
The next day we dropped in for a quick brekky at what looked like just an average takeout. I was going to get a bacon and egg roll but tried the Indo Rice and it was one of the best brekkies I've ever had! Check out the Continetal Cafe if you are in Exmouth. Then, with a satisfied tummy, we snorkelled, first at Oyster Stacks and when the tide got too low we went to Turquoise Bay, which is as beautiful as it sounds.
The area is known as Australia's Coral Coast, but in all honesty the coral that I swam to wasn't spectacular. I can't comment on what it would be like a bit further off shore, but it didn't matter anyway because the fish life was insane!
I've never seen so many colourful varieties in one small space before. It was really spectacular and my photos don't even do it justice.
But I'll post them anyway...
My favourite fishies are these shy blue ones. I love them!
Bliss!
The natural scenery around Cape Range National Park is really beautiful, and there is plenty of wildlife too.
One that made it
and one that did not
This little guy, patiently waiting to cross the road, was just sooooo cute!!
Eventually Sonny intervened and helped him across to the other side, where he sloooowly unrolled and went on his cute little way.
I was so lucky because I also got the opportunity to photograph backstage at Fiji Fashion Week this year.
I spoke at Fiji National University, then at Tailevu North high school,
and then also on the catwalk at fashion week(!)...
It was crazy, but it was fantastic too.
Talking with the students at the school it came to me that there were quite a few of them who were keen on photography as a career (with the amount of weddings hosted in Fiji, the tourist industry, and the growing fashion industry I think it is a good option for some) though the teaching there is so limited for that. Since I got back I have been trying to organise some more equipment so I can go to Fiji again and give some lessons.
That is something that would really make me smile!
Aaaand, I wrote an article to accompany Sonny's photos in the Fiji Airways in-flight magazine.
My first in-flight magazine article, so I am pretty stoked!
So you don't have to grab a magnifying glass.....
"Fashion in Paradise.
Years ago, while flying Air Pacific (Fiji Airways previous incarnation) a mellifluous voice came over the intercom to welcome us aboard “the world’s friendliest airline”. My young daughter misheard and thought the stewardess said the “world’s trendiest airline”, and the name has stuck with us since. Even if the slogan has dropped from the current moniker, it still holds true - Fiji Airways is the world’s friendliest airline - and since it is jetting people to and fro for Fiji Fashion Week (and for the purposes of my story) it can be the trendiest too!
Now Fijians are fabulous with a sulu, but when talking about fashion capitals around the world, Suva doesn’t normally get a mention – just ask acclaimed fashion photographer Sonny Vandevelde, whose job it is to travel the world covering all the action backstage at shows like Chanel, Versace and Tom Ford, in places like Paris, Milan and New York.
That’s right. The poor guy gets paid to travel the world and take beautiful photos of beautiful people in beautiful fashion!
Sonny is famous for his backstage photography, which is quirky, colourful and fun, and last month, with Fiji Fashion Week in it’s 8th year, Sonny travelled to Suva accompanied by myself, and Nicholas Huxley (the esteemed, and very talented, Head of the Fashion Design Studio in Sydney) to see what “Fashion in Paradise” was all about.
After a smooth touchdown in Nadi, Nicholas flew ahead to Suva, while Sonny and I took the overland route – Fiji is one of our favourite holiday destinations but as we had never been to Suva before, we wanted to see the countryside. That, and the fact we just can’t go past a meal of mud crab from our favourite restaurant Tomlus in Cuvu, on the Coral Coast. Truly it is the best mud crab, and it takes a long time to eat, so our arrival in Suva that night was very late!
The light of the next day revealed a stunningly serene vista over Lami Bay and it’s small islands, from our balcony at the Novotel. I had no idea Suva would look like this! Breakfast was accompanied by the most delightful array of tropical fish swimming past our table, almost close enough to touch, which along with that view of the bay lent the whole scene a cool, James Bond kind of feel.
The first stop on our schedule was a visit to Fiji National University to talk with design students about fashion and its related avenues. The audience had some great questions, and the panel had insightful answers. Fiji’s manufacturing industry is already well-established and ready for more, so building the fashion industry through the university’s fashion and design school is key to expanding in a growing market. Director of Fiji Fashion Week, Ellen Whippy-Knight, speaks passionately about the industry in Fiji. Her enthusiasm is not just words - she is making things happen from the ground up, starting with the students.
That night there was a great energy at the Vodafone Arena and we got our first taste of the exciting looks from both local and international designers. My personal favourites from the show were the relaxed, slouchy wearability and tailoring of the local, Rako Designs, and Dena Burton’s nod to 70’s styling with her Jetsetter collection.
On our second morning we had the pleasure of visiting Tailevu North College and speaking with the high school students there. Some are budding fashion designers, and artists, while others are keen photographers, eager to learn. I spoke with them about how photography is an industry of real growth in Fiji, and as someone who teaches photography I have no doubt I will be back there soon, giving a few lessons!
That evening, backstage was filled with models having hair and make-up retouches, scrambling into their outfits, and lots more great Fiji colour and patterns. I really loved the funky looks and gorgeous florals of Ilai Jikoiono, and the FNU Students had a fabulous collection, too!
Day three began with a children’s show – not just clothes for children, but clothes designed by children as well!
I have two words. Cuteness. Overload!
Backstage was buzzing with excitement because next it was a chance for the high school students to show off their outstanding talent, and I have to say, I was absolutely impressed and inspired by the designs of these students! If this is the future of Fiji fashion then the outlook is very bright. So many great pieces from all of the schools involved, but I really loved the classic pink styling from LDS, and the navy blue strapless dresses from Tailevu North (I’d like to put my order in for one of each now, thank you!).
The evening, and the event wrapped up with the Couture Resort Evening and Bridal Show. What a way to end it too, with really stunning creations! My highlight was the incredible Fijian Tapa wedding dress by Epeli Tuibqa. But I also adored the colour and movement of Robert Kennedy’s dresses, the boho looks of Hani Haring, the beauty and design of Aza by Ali Zulfikar and Nicholas Donlen’s awesome peacock feather dress…. actually, there were so many great looks I can’t choose!
Our last day in Fiji and Sonny got to do the one thing he loves more than taking photos – go for a surf. With fellow surfer Ben, designer from Hani Haring, they took a boat to Frigates and spent the day on the waves.
I took the quieter approach and snorkelled off the beach at the Shangri-La (my favourite home away from home). As I explored the underwater worlds, the silence only broken by the blissful chatter of the reef, I had a chance to muse over the last few days. As the thousands of stunningly colourful and patterned fish swam around me, I was reminded of the colour and patterns I had seen backstage and it dawned on me…
With inspiration like that, it’s no wonder Fiji has a great future in fashion!
Special thanks to Fiji Airways, Ellen Whippy-Knight and all of the sponsors of Fiji Fashion Week 2015.
Jacqui Turner."
The most viewed blog post on my blog are about Tomlus. Every day I have hits to those posts and since I first wrote them, you now have to book or queue to eat there. I really hope I can still get a table after giving them a mention in Fiji Times!!
I do have a few more great things to share about my Fiji trip, but since it came after WA (like straight after, like the next morning), I will have a chat about WA first....
I've also had two articles published in the time away from blogging.
I really, really love it when my text and photos get printed in a magazine!
The first was Koncierge Magazine with my behind the scenes story and pics of a very cool shoot.
I have no online link to share, so I have popped my text here if you would like to read it without a magnifying glass...
"Airline travel used to be all about excitement and glamour. Not accessible like it is today with thousands of commuters on peakhour flying-people-movers, air travel in days of yore meant dressing up – itwas an occasion to experience in style.
Photographer, Sonny Vandevelde, and KONCIERGE Fashion Director Michael Azzollini teamed up to bring that style back, and there was no better fusion for designer gowns than with a Singapore Airlines A380 jet. In our view, one of the world’s finest, Singapore Airlines was the first to fly the double storied A380, and treat their passengers in all classes to a new era in comfort. We were lucky enough to be given access to all areas, even the turbofan engine!
But an aeroplane as a location is no easy task… International carriers don’t hang around airports for very long. Our plane arrived that morning and was due to depart at lunchtime. In the meantime it needed to be cleaned, and we needed to shoot eight outfits – something that could normally take a whole day – and before that we had to pass security checks.
We needed passports, and time.
Make-up and hair began in the wee hours so we were ready to go as soon as the plane was. Security checks and passes at the airport were made, and then we were on the plane being towed out of the way to a remote bay for cleaning and our shoot.
For what could have been a logistical nightmare, everything went like clockwork. It was fast paced, and full of energy (just the way Vandevelde likes to shoot). Out on the tarmac, with planes roaring past, taking off and landing, the adrenalin was high. We had to shout over the tremendous thunder of the engines, hair and make-up touch-ups were fast, we were dwarfed by the huge machinery, and the photos are strong, fierce, because of it.
Inside the aircraft was quieter. The light was soft, filtered and subdued. The first and business class cabins were refined, and models Yifan and Anne-Sofie made it their own, gave their own beautiful style, and the resulting photos are sublime. Two hours of shooting is all it took, in a superhuman feat from all of the crew, nine outfits in total, and it all came together. An incredible experience for all involved, and so much fun!"
And just a couple more photos that didn't run with the article...
I do manage to keep my Facebook business page up to date, and I grabbed just a couple of snippets from there.
I really wanted to share these photos because the Rumba Resort in Caloundra had great rooms, and this pool (one of two, and not including the spa, at the relatively small resort) was so cool! No surprise the kids loved it.
Belle.
India.
I caught up with friends there, visited the Ginger Factory and had a lovely little break. This was a waterfall and swimming hole. It's hard to see from the photo, but it was a huge drop to be jumping off!
Like all good things, my second amazing journey to Europe with my kids, had come to an end.
My biggest regret is that it has taken me 7 months since getting back to finally write about it, my memories aren't as fresh and I fear I may have omitted parts, but the true value was in the experience anyway.
There were so many great moments and when I think of a favourite my mind immediately gazumps it with another.
If you are just meeting this journey now, please take some time to look over the previous posts - there were so many!
I know I am so lucky.
I hope my kids know too.
I can't wait to do it with them again - three times a charm!
We had heavy hearts about our journey coming to an end, and we weren't ready to hang up the wanderlust yet.
As we had flown in to Amsterdam, it was from there that we would fly home again, so that was the next and last place to explore.
We wanted to visit Anne Frank's house. We hadn't anticipated a queue that lapped itself around a block.
On limited time, I contented myself with a photo of the line instead,
and a cruise on the canals,
Love this!
which was pretty cool.
My heart danced with my taste buds a little when we were on the hunt for dinner and I came across a fondue restaurant. I love fondue, so I was always on the lookout for it, I just didn't expect to find it in Amsterdam.
Crignon was a cosy place and we ate upstairs (how the wait-staff negotiate the steep and narrow staircase, I have no idea).
The fondue was delicious, and so was the wine.
Aaaah. There's nothing like an evening stroll after dinner, and there was nothing like this one, ever, as far as the kids were concerned.
Without looking for it, we found ourselves surrounded in marijuana and ladies in doorways. Poor Ev practically had to shield his peripheral eye-line as we walked down that road - I'm pretty sure he would have preferred the ground to swallow him up!
Admittedly it is an unusual attraction for a family holiday, but travel is about broadening the horizons.
I made another awesome hotel choice with the Volks Hotel. It was a little out of the central ring (three subway stops) but I preferred being away from all of the tourists anyway.
The ex Volks newspaper headquarters had only recently opened as a hotel. Marketed as "a place for single moms. For stockbrokers and punk rockers. For dandies and poets. Dishwashers and underwater welders. For biologists, night bloomers and artists. A place for everyone.", it was really cool.
The lobby, bars, dining and rooftop are all great social spots, with funky design everywhere you look.
The rooms are quirky, and while some points are great - heaps of storage space and the loft in the quad room, and fabulous big windows,
Some are not for everyone - the clear glass that divides the shower and toilet from the main room in the double (I'm not prudish at all and still thought it was a tough call), and a bit of thump thump on the 6th floor from the nightclub on the 7th.
The beds are comfortable, though our sheets were a little scratchy (felt like only about 25 thread count), and the breakfast was pretty yummy with bacon and pancakes as well as the usual cereal and bread fare.
They seemed to be ironing out a few other kinks while they were still building, and as it's a little off-centre I just accept the fact you can see the men's urinal from the rooftop hot-tub/sauna area (even if it's just weird).
Having said all of that, it is good value for what you get, and if you want somewhere that is not a standard hotel motel, then Volks is it.
Before we left for the final leg of our journey on our way home, we stopped again by Wim and Hilda's house to give their lawn a good water (at least, that was the end result!).
It is such a beautiful place to be, and I figured it would provide the perfect backdrop for some updated Running Under the Sprinkler photos.
Huge thanks to Hilda and Wim for letting me use their special location!
So so pretty!
And, after six weeks of traveling around Europe with a cast on his arm, it was time to let that poor arm get some air again. Hilda just happened to have a tool that would do it.
That was reason to celebrate!
Of course, that makes me smile, and so does this!....
My Germany to Belgium route needed to include another small country (just cos I could). Luxembourg could easily have been passed straight through relatively quickly, but I felt a little obligation to myself to at least set foot on this small country's soil.
Bit of a mistake. Midway in a long drive the last thing you feel like doing is queuing up behind a whole lot of deluded tourists thinking that by crossing the border and buying their coffee and booze in bulk and free from duty, it will be cheap.
They are so wrong.
Had they headed south to Italy instead, their reward would have been coffee at half the price that it was in that petrol station, the alcohol too, and the cokes they drank while standing in the lines paying for their overpriced petrol would have paid for their trip over another border.
We only just made it to Dinant before closing time for our giant, bas relief styled, hard biscuits called 'couque'. Another revisit of our previous trip.
The next morning (and day, and the day after that too) we gnawed away on the hard honey and flour shapes....
A few photos from around Granny's house....
If only I could pick it all up and bring it home to use as backdrops for my childrens' portraits!
Near Muizen there is a dairy farmer who sells ice-cream from a shop at the farm gate.
I really try to stay in unique accommodation and I got it in my head that I could find a castle somewhere in Germany.
Turns out there is more than one, but after reading a few reviews, Colmberg Castle was my choice.
Colmberg Castle had all the trappings I wanted in a castle stay (except I couldn't find any ghosts). It has had a long and colourful history and I enjoyed reading about it as I lay in bed looking at the huge beams draped across the ceiling. It's the type of history you would expect from a building that dates back to the 13th century - at one stage it was the headquarters of the kingdom of Bavaria, and in more (relatively) recent past it belonged to the last imperial consul of Japan.
The rooms and bathrooms are very clean, and although ours wasn't huge, it was well-priced and very comfortable.
At night as I went to sleep I was amazed at how quiet it was! After six weeks travelling in Europe I had become accustomed to sleeping with all sort of noise from singing, to rushing rivers, cars and church bells, so the silence at Colmberg was very noticeable and also very welcome!
The staff are very friendly and helpful too. There are quite a few stairs, so don't bring all of your big bags up, just what you need. It's not the most stairs I have had to climb in a hotel - by a long shot, and it is a medieval castle after all!
It was a pretty good find accommodation-wise, and the kids were impressed!
Dinner was delicious and venison featured on the menu. I love venison, and deer are very cute, I just try not to think of them both at the same time.
I slept in. The girls got up and joined in one of the Sport Vital Hotel's morning constitutionals up a steep green hill.
We met for breakfast. Me with my glass of orange juice followed by a glass of champagne (oh, come on! It's buffet and I was on holiday!), and the girls just back from their mountain walk. Their stories convinced me to wander the green hills later that day.
But first, we had a lunch date that was a walk for some of the really keen locals with special hiking boots and fancy, graphite-and-magic walking sticks, but a drive uphill for us.
Grieralm is a pretty spot with a nice pub for lunch. Speckknoedel Suppe had become our yardstick measure of fine Austrian dining, and I really loved the one at Tuxer Fernerhaus on the glacier, but the one at Grieralm pub was pretty moreish too! This is not it, in the picture....
There is the prettiest dam next to the pub...
Complete with mega-fauna (I'm not great with large and flighty animals)
That afternoon, before the girls joined in their yoga class and I sat on the balcony with a glass of chocolate liqueur, I walked, with them and my camera, up the mountain across from the hotel. Not too far to be unpleasant. Just to enjoy the scenery.
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